http://www.yes028.com/vapor/ zh-cn PBlog2 v2.4 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/images/logos.gif http://www.yes028.com/vapor/ 猫，诗意的安居。 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=133 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Sun,14 Sep 2008 15:13:21 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=133
    "这一条肌腱到底需要支撑多大的力量呢?事实上,人类的膝关节在演化上是一个非常粗糙的结果.当人类的远祖开始用两脚站立时，膝盖并没有准备好接受这样大的力量。这一点，由许多的膝关节韧带以及软骨的问题就可以看出。好的消息是，自行车对膝盖的伤害算是轻微的。膝盖的结构是适宜做像自行车所需的平顺动作。但是，为什么这样转动的运动仍然会造成膝盖的紧绷与张力呢?这是一个非常复杂的问题，用最简单的方式来说，膝盖运动的方式，并不是像铰炼一样单纯一个平面上的做动。而是在活动时会有一点极轻微的转动。举例来说，如果在骑车时，注意一下你的膝盖骨，如果它是垂直的上下运动，而没有前后的晃动，那么膝盖所受的压力是极少的，但是如果你的膝盖骨是呈一个8字形或是S字形运动（从侧面看），那么，就有可能造成膝盖的受伤。一个好的自行车骑乘位置的调整是非常重要的。

    Bicycling杂志建议每个人都应该在冰箱中准备一包冰冻的豌豆?!没错，就是豌豆，因为豌豆不会像冰块一样固结起来，所以可以轻易的和你受伤的部位贴合得非常紧密。

*症状:尖锐而刺痛的感觉，发生在你的膝盖外侧，iliotibial band（实在不知道怎么翻，就是大腿外侧的一条韧带，摸摸看，连接到你的膝盖外侧，是用来固定与连接大腿外侧那条肌肉与膝关节的，这是一个复杂的结构，牵涉到两处关节，三处腱...）当你这一条韧带在踩踏过程中腿伸直的时候，摩擦到膝盖外侧的一块软骨(condoyle)，就会有这种疼痛感。O形腿，内八字脚，骨盆较宽，膝内翻症（踩踏或行走时膝盖会向内，甚至碰撞的一种问题）以及扁平足，都必较容易出现这样的问题。
诊断:Iliotibial band friction syndrome
治疗方法:这是很少数膝盖问题你需要降低坐垫高度来解决的。降低到一个适当的坐垫高度，这样可以减少韧带与软骨之间的摩擦，除了冰敷以外，大腿外侧韧带的伸展运动也会有帮助。

*症状:使用重档硬踩或者是爬楼梯所造成膝盖骨后的疼痛，压痛点在膝盖骨上。
诊断：大腿及膝盖骨疼痛症候群(chondromalacia)
治疗方法:自行车对于这种症状，事实上是具有相当的帮助的，但是前提是必须要用高转速(90~100 rpm)并选用轻档（低速档）来踩踏。避开斜坡。较高的坐垫位置有帮助。强化股直肌的力量（位在大腿正中央的一条肌肉，是固定膝盖骨的重要关键）都有助于避免这种经常发生的恼人症状的产生。我想,这是一种最常出现的症状了.

*症状：膝盖内侧膝盖骨的边缘多出的一块内膜，百分之七十的人有这块无用的痕迹器官，有些人在骑自行车时，会造成这块膜与膝盖骨的摩擦，通常是因为过低的坐垫位置或者是外八字的骑乘方法所造成的。
诊断：中层韧带发炎
治疗方法：冰敷，按摩，提高坐垫位置，某些比较严重的情形需要手术去除那块硬膜。

*症状：很明显的膝盖骨下方粗大的韧带疼痛，通常被称为「春天膝伤」，因为受这种伤的人通常是在初春的时候，重新开始运动的时候作了超过韧带负荷量的运动。过多的重量训练，或者是膝盖没有保暖也有可能导致同样的问题。
诊断：膝腱炎
治疗方法：冰敷五分钟之后，顺着韧带方向按摩，重复数次。另外，电疗，或者是超音波疗法都相当的有效。

*症状：膝盖后内侧腿筋受伤，通常肇因于过高的坐垫位置或者是活动度过大的踏板位置。
诊断：足部鹅状滑囊炎
治疗方法：冰敷，休息与伸展。调整坐垫位置，调整踏板的活动度与角度。

*症状：膝后部中央腿筋疼痛，通常肇因于不当的踏板位置，坐垫过高，或者是场地车的固定齿，不允许滑行休息的情况。
诊断：股二长肌腱炎
治疗方法:冰敷，考虑使用固定式的踏板，降低坐垫高度。"
]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=132 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Sun,14 Sep 2008 14:44:36 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=132     骑了四十公里左右我的右膝盖就开始疼，以前虽然也会疼但大都是在骑了一天很累的时候才会出现。一直以为是因为右膝比较顶风所以戴上了护膝，但这次我觉得是膝盖的内部出现了问题，我甚至能感觉到它里面的磨擦和冲突，而且越来越疼，最厉害的时候每踩一脚都得吸口凉气，而且右脚基本上使不出什么力气了，爬小坡就主要用左脚发力，大坡就只有下来推，不过下来走走再骑就没那么疼了。下午还下了点小雨，更凉爽了，路面湿了，我一背都是泥，推车时码表显示4.5（公里/小时），骑车时9.5，我变了几次速，速度却没什么变化。过南滨路的时候骑得快了点，结果就没劲了，阿木陪着我慢慢骑，还有蚊子咬我们！当每一脚都变得艰难，天知道我想过多少次回不去了，但是很庆幸始终没有放弃，终于还是回到了家，而且并没有特别的欣喜，只是忘了腿疼、忘了尘土，家是一个有魔力的地方么？
    祝中秋节全家快乐！

我的右小腿上有半圈好看的牙盘印

貌似孤独的小阿木

从小一起玩泥巴的好朋友-阿木(右)和马原(左)  





]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=118 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Mon,28 Jul 2008 23:15:42 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=118 http://www.infovisual.info/),简单明快的风格让人感觉很严谨，但是它的图做的真是有型，配色我也喜欢，有公路车和配件图，都很漂亮。比较一下，上次发的那张简直就是又黄又暴力啊。
　　ps：我们在那个网站搜外星人，结果找不出来，不免有点小失望。愿你找到你想要的。




Bicycle: two-wheeled vehicle operated by pedals.
Rear caliper brake: piece that joins the different parts of the rear brake.
Seat post: metal tube that holds the seat.
Saddle: seat.
Cross bar: cylinder that connects the seat tube and the head tube.
Handlebar stem: metal tube used to steer the front wheel.
handle bars: metal tube used for steering.
Brake cable: braided steel cable used to control the brakes.
Brake lever: device used to operate the brake.
Head tube: cylinder that holds the handlebars and which connects the crossbar to the down tube.
Front caliper brake: piece that joins the different parts of the front brake.
Derailleur gear changer: lever used to shift the chain on a multi-speed bicycle.
Fork: piece formed of two parallel tubes, between which the wheel is fixed.
Down tube: cylinder onto which the crank gear is attached and which connects the down tube to the seat tube.
Spoke: long, thin piece of metal connecting the rim of a wheel to its hub.
Hub: central part crossed by the axle.
Rim: circle of metal forming the edge of a wheel.
Tire: hollow, air-filled casing made of rubber-covered fabric and steel.
Tire valve: system used to regulate the air in a tire.
Wheel: round object that turns around a central axle to allow the bicycle to advance.
Pedal: footed operated system used to propel a bicycle.
Crank arm: arm perpendicular to an axle, used to give it circular motion.
Drive chain: set of metal links that is used to transmit motion.
Rear derailleur: apparatus used to transfer the chain from one gear to another, situated at the rear of a bicycle.
Chain stay: part on which the bicycle rests.
Front derailleur: apparatus used to transfer the chain from one gear to another, situated at the front of a bicycle.
Seat tube: cylinder to which the seat is attached and which connects the down tube to the crossbar.
]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=121 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Mon,28 Jul 2008 00:12:15 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=121

Derailleur: apparatus used to transfer the chain from one toothed wheel to another.
Shifter: solid, movable arm, attached to a fixed point, that increases applied force.
Locking bolt: piece of metal, placed at the centre, with a head at one end and a thread at the other. Used with a nut.
Control cable: set of braided steel wires, used to control the brakes.
Sheath bushing: piece that holds the brake cable in place.
Control cable: set of braided steel wires, used to control the brakes.
Tension spring: part that returns a second part to its initial position.
Adjustable stop screw: small piece of metal that regulates the tension of the gear cable.
Roller: metal protuberance used to transfer the chain from gear to gear.
Frame or roller: mechanism that permits the operation of the moving part of the bicycle.
Clutch: cylindrical part.
Jockey roller: metal protuberance used to transfer the chain from gear to gear.
Cable: set of braided steel wires used to control the brakes.
Chain guide: part of the mechanism guiding movable parts.
Nut or hub: piece of metal with a threaded hole at its centre. Used with a bolt.
Gear: wheel of the gear system.
Frame: chassis of a bicycle]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=120 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Mon,28 Jul 2008 00:11:42 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=120


Brakes: apparatuses used to slow or stop a moving vehicle.
Side-pull brake: breaks with friction pad pulled against the wheel on each side.
Cover: sheath covering the brake cable.
Pivot: axle.
Barrel adjuster: small piece of metal used to regulate the tension of the gear cable.
Locking nut: piece of metal with a hole at its centre, used with a nut, that locks something in place.
Spring: piece of metal that uses the elasticity of certain bodies to transmit motion.
Cable: set of braided steel wires.
Domed nut: piece of metal with a head at one end and a thread at the other, used with a nut to hold something in place.
Yoke: movable part, copyright by bernard dery.
Brake block: movable rubber that can be pressed against the wheel rim to brake a vehicle.
Brake shoe: piece of metal that supports the brake pad.
Base plate: piece that holds the different parts of the brake.
Cable lock nut: piece of metal that holds an object in place.
Centre-pull brake: breaks with friction pad pulled against the tire.
]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=119 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Mon,28 Jul 2008 00:02:30 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=119


Crank gear: mechanism comprised mainly of pedals, cranks and a chain wheel that drives a bicycle.
Frame: chassis of a bicycle.
Cone: roller bearing.
Fixed cup: metal plate covering the ball bearings.
Chain wheel: support that holds a disk clutch.
Pedal: foot-operated system used to propel a bicycle.
Crank arm: arm perpendicular to an axle, used to give it circular motion.
Ball bearings: ball-bearing mechanism used to reduce friction between pieces rolling on each other.
]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=122 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Mon,28 Jul 2008 00:01:30 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=122

Tire: hollow, elastic casing enclosing an air-filled cavity.
Tread pattern: raised designs on the surfaces of a tire.
Side wall: side of the tire.
Radical body cords: arched frame of the tire.
Special high stiffness apex: filling material.
Bead wire: wire moulding a tire.
Belt: layers of different thicknesses that cover the frame of the tire.
Tread design: part of the tire that comes into contact with the road.

]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=115 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Sun,13 Jul 2008 14:12:16 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=115     不巧的家里气筒居然凭空消失了，我们六点起来又绕到石桥铺蝶妹的店里去买了个GIANT的气筒，不带着气筒还是没有安全感的。胎里气足了人胆子也大了，不过肖飞硬说龙头变灵活，一下竟然上不去车了。
    新人入伙，害我挺紧张，时不时总得回头看看。才出工学院大门我回头一瞧人不在了，阿木在前面跑了，我就停下来等，左等右等回去一看，飞哥的链子掉了，他花了点时候挂上，档不对我给他调了一下。他说骑着觉得车在卡卡响，上来一摩托跟他说链子掉了才知道。呵呵。我们骑到鱼洞的时候又把飞哥郁闷了一回。那条路挺宽挺直，大车特别多，大家都不要命地开，你在边上骑，那些车硬是敢贴着你突然地冲过去，我们手稳还好，飞哥手生后来就搬到人行道上骑，结果后来人行道另一边有一条沟，飞哥觉得像在悬崖边上，于是又往下搬。希望飞哥不要看到这篇。呵呵，其实那条路确实是有危险的，小心是好事。我们骑到三岔口，太阳大了起来，飞哥又不见了，阿木骑车去找他，一会回来就见他一身伤，还好是擦伤，不算严重。据说是被辆不懂事的车撞了一下，捏刹捏急了，人飞到了沙地上。哎，希望不要让飞哥女朋友看到。
    到云篆山脚是十一点多，太阳很大了，上得山来就凉快了，又有树荫又有凉风。我觉得比较轻松，大家都比较轻松，我发现我还能一边爬坡一边腾出一只手来拍照，呵呵。山上人家种了很多荷花，荷塘边的清香被太阳晒暖了，就是家乡的味道。我跟阿木约好，再过两个月等结了莲子再上来一次。

      上山后阿木一个劲地拍小镇上的红色革命壁画，我到处找吃饭的地儿，饭馆虽小菜色倒也全，冰啤酒整起，穿堂风吹起，再苦点再累点太阳再大点也毫不犹豫。山上有个森林公园，买了票还得爬几个坡，公园不好玩，我们找地儿喝茶吃冰棒，想睡的就趴会儿，倒也舒服。边上篮球场上鸿星尔克员工在军训，好多美女就在那儿晒着。
    五点多我们动身下山了，下山新手容易出事，教了飞哥一些要领，后来听说还是有一次差一点人飞出去了，还好还好。往鱼洞赶的时候人骑开了，就上大盘骑得飞快，结果上一陡坡的时候没来得及变档一下子变不过来了车也踩不动了，档变不上去又被我按乱了，我就下来调。我那车没有脚撑我一个人弄得很狼狈，急得一头的汗，结果有个小帅哥突然走过来说能帮下我吗？我那叫一个惊喜啊，他掌着车几下就弄好了，我都想亲亲他了，呵。
    回来后发现今天的行头是完全错了，怎么能穿短裤出去呢，我的腿上短裤边缘被晒了个好黑的印，脸也伤了几天，有点怕了。夏天很多人选择夜骑，但我就是想跑远点，等阴天吧。



  ]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=113 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Wed,09 Jul 2008 16:20:49 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=113
Did you know that:
·    Aluminum frames have a harsh ride?
·    Titanium frames are soft and whippy?
·    Steel frames go soft with age, but they have a nicer ride quality?
·    England's Queen Elizabeth is a kingpin of the international drug trade?
All of the above statements are equally false.
There is an amazing amount of folkloric "conventional wisdom" about bicycle frames and materials that is widely disseminated, but has no basis in fact.
The reality is that you can make a good bike frame out of any of these metals, with any desired riding qualities, by selecting appropriate tubing diamters, wall thicknesses and frame geometry.
Stiffness, Strength and Weight
Strength and stiffness are different properties that are often confused with one another. It is important to understand the difference, if you want to understand differences in frame materials.
Imagine you clamp one end of a metal bar in a vise, and you hang a weight on the free end, causing the bar to flex temporarily. When you remove the weight, the bar snaps back to its original shape.
Different materials will flex different amounts for the same amount of force applied. This is stiffness.
Now imagine hanging a heavier weight on the bar, so heavy that it becomes premanently deformed. When you remove this weight, the bar does not snap back all the way to its original shape, but remains bent to some extent. When the metal changes shape permanently, it is said to "yield."
Different materials can withstand different amounts of force before yielding. This property is strength.
Stiffness
Stiffness affects the riding qualities of a bike frame, since a frame suffers no permanent deformation in normal riding.
Stiffness is determined by a property of the material called "elastic modulus" Elastic modulus is essentially independent of the quality or alloying elements in a given metal. All kinds of steel, for instance have basically the same elastic modulus.
Strength
Strength relates to the crash-worthiness or general durability of a frame, but has no effect on the riding properties.
Strength is determined by a property of the material called "yield strength."
Yield strength is very much affected by the quality, heat treatment and alloying elements used in a particular brand/model of tubing.
Weight
In addition to the strength and stiffness, there's also the question of how heavy a given volume of the material is. This is called "specific gravity."
Like stiffness, the specific gravity of a given metal is not significantly affected by the addition of different alloying elements. Although your bike may have a sticker saying "Lite Steel (TM)," in fact, all steel is equally heavy.
Here are some properties of the three common frame metals:
Material     Modulus     Yield Point     Specific Gravity
Aluminum 10-11     11-59 (4-22 annealed.)     168.5
Steel     30     46-162     490
Titanium     15-16.5     40-120     280
Note that the modulus (stiffness) and specific gravity (weight) are pretty much independent of the quality, heat treatment, or alloying agents of the materials. For instance, all steels, from the "gas-pipe" used in department-store bikes to the exotic alloys used in multi-thousand dollar bikes have a modulus of 30, and a specific gravity of 490.
Anybody that tells you that a particular brand of steel (or aluminum, or titanium) is "lighter" or "stiffer" than another brand or model is blowing smoke.
There are, however, real differences in yield strength among different qualities of tubing.
This modulus value shows that if you were to build identical frames from the 3 materials, using the same tubing diameters and wall thicknesses, the aluminum frame would be only 1/3 as stiff as a steel one, and the titanium frame only half as stiff.
The yield values show that the aluminum frame would be very much weaker, in the sense of being more easily damaged than either the steel or titanium frames.
The specific gravity values show that the aluminum frame would only weigh 1/3 what the steel frame weighs, while the titanium frame would be roughly half the weight of the steel one.
These generalities, however, are basically meaningless, because you wouldn't build frames out of the three different metals to the same tubing dimensions!
Real bicycles take the nature of the material into account in selecting the diameter and wall-thickness of each piece of tubing that goes to make up the frame. Stiffness is mainly related to the tubing diameter. Strength is mainly related to the wall thickness, though diameter also enters into it. Weight is affected both by diameter and wall thickness.
A frame manufacturer can make trade-offs by selecting different tube diameters/wall thicknesses, allowing a frame to be made stiffer, or stronger, or lighter.
Steel vs Titanium
Look at the chart again. You'll see that identical steel vs titanium frames would be about equal in strength, but that the titanium frame would be about half the weight and half the stiffness.
Such a frame would likely have a whippy feel due to the reduced stiffness, especially in loaded touring applications. To compensate, builders of titanium frames use somewhat larger diameter tubes to bring the stiffness more into line with what riders like. This tends to increase the weight a bit, but by making the walls of the larger tubes a bit thinner, they can compensate to some extent, and come up with a frame that is still lighter than a normal steel frame.
Steel vs Aluminum
The situation with aluminum is even more pronounced. the "identical" aluminum frame would be 1/3 as stiff as steel, roughly half as strong, and 1/3 the weight. Such a frame would be quite unsatisfactory. That's why aluminum frames generally have noticeably larger tubing diameters and thicker-walled tubing. This generally results with frames of quite adequate stiffness, still lighter than comparable steel ones.
Large diameter thin-wall tubing.
The advantages of larger tubing diameter can, theoretically be applied to steel construction, but there's a practical limit. You could build a steel frame with 2 inch diameter tubing, and it would be stiffer than anything available--indeed, stiffer than anybody needs. By making the walls of the tubes thin enough, you could make it very, very light as well.
Why don't manufacturers do this? Two reasons.
·  The thinner the walls of the tubing, the harder it is to make a good joint. This is the reason for butted tubing, where the walls get thicker near the ends, where the tubes come together with other tubes.
·  In addition, if the walls get too thin, the tubes become too easy to dent, and connection points for bottle cages, cable stops, shifter bosses and the like have inadequate support.
Stiffness and ride quality
Frame stiffness (or the lack of it) doesn't have as much effect on ride quality as many people would lead you to believe. Let's look at it from a couple of different directions:
Torsional/lateral stiffness
This is mainly related to the stresses generated by the forces you create from pedaling. Any frame will flex around the bottom bracket a bit in response to pedaling loads. This flex can be felt, and many riders assume that it is consuming (wasting) pedaling effort. Actually, that's not the case, because the metals used in bicycle frames are very efficient springs, and the energy gets returned at the end of the power stroke, so little or nothing is actually lost. While there is no actual loss of efficiency from a "flexy" frame, most cyclists find the sensation unpleasant, and prefer a frame that is fairly stiff in the drive-train area. This is more of a concern for larger, heavier riders, and for those who make a habit of standing up to pedal.
Another area where lateral stiffness can be an issue particularly to the touring cyclist is the rear triangle, when there's a touring load on the rear rack. An frame that is too flexy in this area will feel "whippy" and may be prone to dangerous oscillations at high speeds. Most of this flex is usually in the luggage rack itself, but there can be enough flex in the seat stays to aggravate this condition.
Vertical stiffness
(Since this article deals with frames, the issue at hand is road shock transmitted from the rear tire to the saddle. Ride qualities experienced at the handlebars are to some extent determined by the fork, as well as geometry, and flex in other bolt-on parts, but are un-related to the choice of frame material.)
Much of the commonplace B.S. that is talked about different frame materials relates to imagined differences in vertical stiffness. It will be said that one frame has a comfy ride and absorbs road shocks, while another is alleged to be harsh and make you feel every crack in the pavement. Virtually all of these "differences" are either the imaginary result of the placebo effect, or are caused by something other than the frame material choice.
Bumps are transmitted from the rear tire patch, through the tire, the wheel, the seatstays, the seatpost, the saddle frame, and the saddle top. All these parts deflect to a greater or lesser extent when you hit a bump, but not to an equal extent.
The greatest degree of flex is in the tire, probably the second greatest is the saddle itself. If you have a lot of seatpost sticking out of a small frame, there's noticeable flex in the seatpost. The shock absorbent qualities of good quality wheels are negligible...and now we get to the seat stays. The seat stays (the only part of this system that is actually part of the frame) are loaded in pure, in-line compression. In this direction, they are so stiff, even the lightest and thinnest ones, that they can contribute nothing worth mentioning to shock absorbency.
The only place that frame flex can be reasonably supposed to contribute anything at all to "suspension" is that, if you have a long exposed seatpost that doesn't run too deep into the seat tube, the bottom end of the seatpost may cause the top of the seat tube to bow very slightly. Even this compliance is only a fraction of the flex of the exposed length of the seatpost.
The frame feature that does have some effect on road shock at the rump is the design of the rear triangle. This is one of the reasons that touring bikes tend to have long chainstays--it puts the rider forward of the rear wheel. Short chainstays give a harsh ride for the same reason that you bounce more in the back of a bus than in the middle...if you're right on top of the wheel, all of the jolt goes straight up.
Where Comfort Comes From
If you're looking for a comfortable ride, it is a mistake to focus on the particular material used to build the frame. There are differences in comfort among different bikes, but they are mainly caused by:
·    Tire choice. Wider, softer tires make more difference to ride comfort than anything to do with the frame. Unfortunately, many newer sport bikes are poorly designed when it comes to tire clearance. For the last decade or more there has been a fad to build frames with very tight tire clearance, although there is no performance advantage whatsoever to such a design. Such bikes cannot accept anything but super skinny tires, and, as a result, there's no way they can ever be really comfortable. See my Article on Tires
·    Saddle choice. See my Article on Saddles.
·    Frame geometry. Generally, frames with longer chain stays, and less vertical seat-tube and head-tube angles are more comfortable. This doesn't make them any slower, but may reduce maneuverability (also known as twitchiness.)
·    Rider positioning. See my Article on Pain and Cycling
Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber is an increasingly popular frame material, but it is fundamentally different from metal tubing as a way to construct frames. Because of the fibrous nature of this material, it has a much more pronounced "grain" than metal does. A well-designed carbon fiber frame can have the fabric aligned in such a way as to provide maximum strength in the directions of maximum stress.
Unfortunately, in bicycle applications, carbon fiber is not a fully mature technology, as tubular-construction metal frames are. Bicycles are subjected to a very wide range of different stresses from many different directions. Even with computer modeling, the loads can't be entirely predicted. Carbon fiber has great potential, but contemporary carbon fiber frames have not demonstrated the level of reliability and durability that are desired for heavy-duty touring use. In particular, a weak point tends to be the areas where metal fitments, such as fork ends, bottom bracket shells, headsets, etc connect to the carbon frame. These areas can be weakened by corrosion over time, and lead to failure.
In geometry, there's nothing as strong as a triangle. Diamond-frame bikes consist basically of two triangles. The elegance and simplicity of this design is very hard to improve upon. Billions of diamond-frame bikes have been made from tubing for over a century, and during that time, hundreds of thousands of very smart people have spent billions of hours riding along and thinking about ways to fine-tune the performance of their bikes. The tubular diamond frame has been fine tuned by an evolutionary process to the point where it is very close to perfection, given the basic design and materials. I often commute on a Mead Ranger frame built in 1916. It's a tad heavier than a more modern frame, but its general riding qualities are as nice as any bike I own.
If there is to be any major improvement in frame design, it must come either from a completely different type of construction process, such as carbon fiber, or cast magnesium; or a completely different type of design, such as a recumbent.
Serviceability
Any of these materials is quite sutiable for short to medium touring in industrialized countries. Titanium, while costly, is generally the most durable material choice, but aluminum and steel are excellent. Nobody's making carbon fiber touring bikes as far as I know, yet.
For extended travel in less-developed areas, steel is probably still the best choice, because in the event of damage, repairs can be made by anybody with a torch and brazing/welding know-how.

单车旅行观点看车架材质 /SanJen编译
你知道吗？
- 铝制车架骑起来最不舒服？
- 钛车架又软又滑？
- 钢制车架有比较好的骑乘质量但会随着年代的久远而变形？
- 英格兰的Queen Elizabeth 是国际毒品交易的首脑？
其实，以上皆非。
长久以来有为数众多的关于车架材质的说法其实是错误的。事实的真象是，只要选择了合适的管径、管壁厚度及车架几何，用任一项现有的车架材料，都可以建造出符合你对骑乘质量要求的车架。
刚性、强度和重量
刚性(Stiffness)
刚性影响车架的骑乘质量，因为车架最怕在正常骑乘时发生变型。刚性决定于材料的弹性系数，而相当重要的是弹性系数和金属的质量及其合金的成份无关。举例来说，所有种类的钢，基本上具有相同的弹性系数。
强度(Strength)
强度和车架的耐用度相关但和骑乘质量无关。强度(strength)由材料的降伏强度(yield strength)决定。降伏强度和车架管材的质量、热处理制程及合金成份(某些品牌型式)有相当大的关系。
重量(Weight)
除了强度和刚性之外，重量也是一个议题。和刚性一样，重量受到材料合金成份的影响相当轻微。即便你的车架贴着"Lite Steel TM"(轻量化钢材)，事实上，所有的钢材几乎具有相等的重量。
这儿有三种常见车架材质的一些特性。
弹性系数(刚性)　降伏点　　　　重量
以上谨是一般性比较，并没有太大的意义，因为没有人会用同样的规格来打造这三种不同材质的车架。
实际的单车依材料的特性加入计算，选择组成车架的每支管材的管径和壁厚。这时和车架刚性主要相关的为管径，和强度主要相关的则为管材壁厚(管径也会有相关)，而管径和壁厚则影响了车架重量。
车架制造商必须衡量不同管径、壁厚和车架刚性、强度、重量的关联，作取舍。
钢与钛
回到上表，你可以发现钛制车架和钢制车架几乎具有同样的强度，但只有钢制车架的一半重量和一半刚性。这样的车架由于刚性变小，特别是在负重长途骑乘时，会感到有点滑溜。车架制造商可以用较大的管径来加强刚性，虽然会增加一点重量，但仍会比一般的钢制车架来得轻。
钢与铝
通常铝制车架的刚性及重量会只有钢制车架的三分之一，强度则只有一半，这也是为什么铝制车架明显地会比较粗比较厚的缘故，只因为了要得到适度的强度和刚性，而这样的车架还是比钢制车架来得轻。
大且簿的管材
大管径的优点也可以适到到钢材上，但实际上有个限制。如果用二英吋直径的钢管来建造车架，可以建造出钢性超出任何人需求的车架，并且只要管壁抽得够薄，也可以非常轻。那为什么没有任何厂家这么做？有二个原因：
- 管壁越薄，就越难接合得好，看一般双抽的管材就可以发现，中间可以较薄，两端较厚便于焊接。
- 另外，如果管壁太薄，会很容凹陷，在表面焊接一些配线端点也会得不到合适的支撑。
刚性和骑乘品质
很多人引导你相信车架刚性和骑乘品质没多大相关，我们来看看一些不同的观点：
‧扭转和侧面刚性(Torsional/lateral stiffness)
这主要和由踏板而来的力量有关。任何车架在踏板施力时在五通管处会有弹力来对抗。这种弹力可以感受得出来，许多骑士认为这会消耗踩踏的力量。其实，这并不是真的，因为车架的金属是非常有效率的弹簧，力量终究会回馈回来，所损失的相当轻微。但是大部分的骑士觉得这种弹性的感觉并不太愉快，并且偏好这部分能更稳固的车架，尤其是身高体重的骑士或喜欢站起来抽车的人，会特别重视。
车架的后三角是单车旅行者对车架刚性要求的另一个区域，因为单车旅行通常会在车后附挂行李。如果车架的后三角太有弹性，骑起会感觉滑溜，高速行驶时也会产生危险。当然大部分的弹性来自于货架，但后上叉若有足够的刚性就可以改善这种滑溜的状况。
‧垂直刚性(Vertical stiffness)
(由于这篇文章是探讨车架，着重点是在于路面的震动由后轮轮胎传达到座垫。至于手把感受到的骑乘质量，决定于前叉、车架几何和一些配件的弹性，和车架材质的选择无关)
有许多关于垂直刚性和不同车架材质中间关联性的老生常谈，有些人说某类车架可以吸收路面震动，该你骑起会感到比较舒服，有的人则说会让你骑起来难过并且可以感受到柏油路面的每一个细碎坑洞。其实这些说法都是没有根据的，或者这些感受根本不是来自于车架。
撞击力由车胎、轮组、后上叉、座管、座垫支架传达至座垫，当你遇到撞击力时，这些部位会扩大或减小撞击力感受的程度。
有一种情况车架的弹性可能对吸震会贡献，亦即当座管抽得相当长，座管的一端仅有一小段插在车架的立管内，这可能会造成立管末端有些轻微的弯曲。但即使是这样，也只是因座管外露长度造成的一点点弹性。
舒适从何而来
如果你是在找寻一辆骑乘舒适的车，把焦点放在车架的材质是错误的。各式单车提供舒适骑乘的方法各不相同，但可归纳为以下主要几项：
- 轮胎的选择，较宽、较软的轮胎对骑乘舒适的影响远大于车架，不幸的是，许多新的运动单车在轮胎的搭配上并未好好的设计。请参考我关于轮胎的文章。
- 座垫，请参考我关于座垫的文章。
- 车架几何，一般而言，后下叉较长、立管和头管间的角度较小会比较舒适。这并不会减慢车速，但会使操控性变差。
- 骑乘位置，请参考我关于骑乘时疼痛的文章。
碳纤维
碳纤维是越来越受欢迎的材质，但在建造车架上它和金属管材有些基本上的不同。因为纤维有其纹理而金属则无。一个设计良好的碳纤维车架，会在受力最大的方向作最适当的纤维网络排列，以提供最大的强度。
不幸的是，在单车的应用上，和金属管材相较下，碳纤维并不是一项完全成熟的技术。单车可能承受来自各个方向的力道，即使使用计算机仿真，仍无法完全预知各方向所承受的程度。碳纤维具有相当大的潜力，但目前仍未见到，有人展示出可以负重长途旅行并且具有相当可靠度和耐用度的碳纤维车架。特别是其和金属接着的部位，例如前叉末端、五通管、头管等，是它比较脆弱的地方。这些部位可能会因时间久了而被侵蚀，以致损坏。
在车架几何方面，没有一个结构形状会和三角型一样强固。钻石型车架由二个三角型组成，这种设计的优雅和简洁，几乎没有再改进的空间。过去一个世纪来已有数十亿辆钻石型车架的单车，并且有数十万聪明的人士花了数十亿小时想要使他们脚下的单车更有效率。钻石型车架可以说已经演进得几近于完美，我有时会骑一架1916年建造的Mead Ranger，它比现代任何一个车架都重，但它的骑乘质量和我所有的单车一样好。
如果在车架的设计上有任何改进，可会来自于完全不同的建造程序，例如碳纤维或是镁，或是完完全全不同型式的设计，例如斜躺车。
维修的容易度
任何上述的材质，用来在已开发国家作短到中距离的旅行，都很合适。钛，除了太昂贵外，可能是最耐久的材质，但铝或钢会更好。就我目前所知，没人生产碳纤维的旅行车。
如果在开发中或第三世界国家作长途旅行，钢仍然是最佳的选择，因为即使损坏了，任何懂得焊接的人都可以将它修复。
]]> http://www.yes028.com/vapor/article.asp?id=110 myvapor@gmail.com(多多) Thu,03 Jul 2008 18:56:05 +0800 http://www.yes028.com/vapor/default.asp?id=110 Climbing to the Top　攀上顶峰
以后会经常找一些介绍骑车方面的东东来翻译，呵呵
Climbing can be one of the toughest yet most enjoyable aspects of cycling. The strain of getting to the beautiful summit makes the view sweeter, and typically, the sweeter the view, the more grueling the climb. Many cyclists, myself included, seek out these great experiences as often as possible. Others avoid them like the plague because they think they can't climb well. There are many ways to improve your climbing. Most important are a positive outlook and an enjoyment of climbing, but there are also many climbing specific workouts, techniques and equipment you can utilize to get better on the hills or mountains.
爬坡可以说是骑车中最坚难而又最愉快的了。到达美丽的顶峰的张力让风景更可爱更有特色，风景越可爱，爬坡过程越是严酷。很多骑士，包括我自已，尽可能多地去寻找这种无比的体验。另一些则唯恐避之不及，因为他们觉得自己不会爬坡。有很多方法可以改善这种状况。最重要的是有一个积极的观点和愉快的心情，当然也有许多具体的训练、技术和装备可以利用。



Improving your watts per kilogram is the major goal. Since gravity is pulling down on your mass, you'll want to minimize your weight & maximize your sustainable power to go uphill faster. Needless to say, all the workouts and gear won't make you a super climber if you're lacking the desire. No matter how easy your favorite climbing superstar makes it look on television, that athlete is really suffering to climb as well. Though they know proper preparation and equipment are vital to their climbing successes, their internal desire to ascend powerfully is probably the most important fuel for the fire.
提高你每公斤的功率是主要目标。因为地心引力会把你往下拉，所以你要极力减少体重和增强可以快速上坡的持续力量。不用说，如果你没有强烈的愿望所有的练习和装备都不能让你成为一个超极爬坡王。不管你喜欢的爬坡明星在电视上表现得多轻松，其实运动员也是在忍受。他们心里有着向上攀登的强烈愿望，这可能是这股冲劲的最重要的燃料。


Technique

Let's begin with simple tactics to improve your climbing technique. These are basically free speed since no hard work is necessary. Many riders don't understand whether they're faster climbing seated or standing, and there's not a definite yes or no. It is true that you conserve more energy seated, yet standing is important when you want to attack or accelerate since you can put much more force into the downstroke. Generally speaking, bigger folks should spend more time seated than smaller riders. When you stand you have to support your body weight in addition to applying force to the pedals. Hence, more body weight means more energy used when one stands. Yet, don't let being big keep you in the saddle for all your climbs. It is OK for anyone to stand on short steep sections. For longer climbs, you'll want to spend more time seated since you need to conserve more energy.
技术
一开始，我们可以用一些简单的战术来提高你的爬坡技术。这基本上就是自由速度，没必要那么辛苦。很多骑行者不知道是坐着还是站着爬坡更快一些，其实这也没有确定的答案。事实是坐着可以保存更多的能量，如果你要出击或加速站着就很重要了，这样你可能在下坡时获得更多力量。一般而言，大个子应该比小个子更多地坐着，当你站着时，你要支持你全身的重量增加了放在脚踏上的力量，所以体重越大意味着站着时消耗的能量也越多。然而，也不要因为大个头而一直坐着。任何人在极陡的地方采用站姿都是必要的。长途骑行中，你应该坐的时间多因为你须要保存更多的能量。



Optimal hand position is another matter for debate. Should you climb in the drops, or on the brake hoods, or on the bar tops? Again the answer varies depending on the terrain & effort. Generally the hoods are the best place to be. You can easily stand for a quick burst of power, yet it is comfortable enough for a long climb. The bar tops also put you in a powerful & comfortable position. You just have to be quick to get your hands to the hoods if you need to stand & accelerate. The drops, believe it or not, can indeed be a good climbing position, but only in the right situation. That situation is an attack or acceleration on a moderate grade. Marco Pantani demonstrated the beauty of this position in his prime. If you have to stand & attack or accelerate on a hill on your next group ride, try it in the drops. Just like sprinting, it's a powerful strong position. I think it can be a very effective position if you're going for your club ride KOM points!  
最佳的手的位置是另一件有争议的事。爬坡时手是放在drops，还是brake hoods 或者是bar tops上。答案取决于路况和力量。一般来说hoods是最好的位置，你可以很容易地站起来暴发力量，对于一个较长的爬坡来说也足够舒适。Bar tops也是个有力和舒适的位置，只是在站起来加速时须要快速地把手换到hoods上。Drops在适当的情况中是可以成为好的位置的。这个情况就是在稳定中速时加速。Marco Pantani在他的全盛时期把这个位置演绎得很漂亮。如果你还有一个爬坡的团体赛，试试用这个位置。就像全速赛，这是一个非常有力的位置。我想你如果是在俱乐部赛上拿KOM点数这个位置是非常有效的。


Climbing Tactics

There are many tricks for improving your tactics when hill climbing in a race or group ride. One of the most common for weaker climbers is to start the hill at the front of the group. Keep an effort that is not too far out of your comfort zone so that you'll slowly slide to the back of the pack at the summit of the hill without blowing up. If your group ride is racing to the top of hills, then you'll want to position yourself near the front for the first third of the climb. There are always those riders that hammer the pace early on a climb, but then blow up and lose lots of time before they reach the summit. Some never learn, eh? Stay ahead of them of just a few riders behind them and be ready to accelerate. Once those early leaders begin to fade you抣l want to begin moving up. Others will be trying to do the same so make sure to hold a good smooth line as you pass.
爬坡战术



The final third of the climb is where the cream rises to the top. Keep up your hard effort all the way to the top. Don't worry if someone latches to your wheel. The draft effect is minimal so it will be hard for them to slingshot past you like on a flat sprint. Here on the climb the leader is in the control position since it takes a huge effort to be overtaken. Be ready to accelerate to the summit as you keep up the pace. It's much like what you see at a fireworks show. There are many sparks down low, but you want to be the star that shines the highest. Another strategy is to bolt from the group early. This is counter-intuitive to most racing logic. It can work well if you're a strong time trialist. By attacking very hard early on the climb, you're making a statement to the group that you are strong & confident. You're now in control turning the climb into a time trial which is your strength. Once the gap is established settle into a steady effort all the way to the top.

How can you climb better if you are a larger built rider? Being larger is indeed a disadvantage since you have more weight to lift against gravity, but it is still possible to go uphill fast. There are some that say you need a weight to height ratio of 2lbs per inch (357grams per centimeter) to climb at a world class level. I strongly disagree as there are exceptions such as Miguel Indurain (2.36lbs per inch or 423 grams per cm) that weigh 18% more than this recommendation! With proper training, you can maximize your ability, regardless of your size. It takes time & much patience, but you can indeed develop into a big strong climber.        



Workouts

The key to improving your climbing is to increase your maximum sustainable power output. You're goal is to be able to maintain a higher pace from the bottom of the climb to the top, and that can be a 30-60 minute effort sometimes. The workouts that lead to the kind of power increases you're looking for consist of long intervals right below your lactate threshold, which is your maximum sustainable pace or power output. The idea is to gradually increase the length of these intervals, and then increase the number you抮e completing, so you accumulate more and more time at this important intensity level.



So, how would this work? After you have a good base of fitness from endurance rides and some interval work on flat and rolling terrain, it's time to hit the hills. Find a road where it takes 8-15 minutes (or more) of sustained climbing to reach the top. During your Preparation Period, or pre-competition period, you should incorporate two or three days of ClimbingRepeat workouts into your weekly schedule. Start by climbing at a pace that's just below your time trial intensity for 8 minutes, then resting for 15 minutes, and then repeating the interval two more times. As you adapt, increase the interval times to 10 minutes and then 12 minutes, while reducing the recovery times to 12 minutes and then 10 minutes.



If there are only short climbs where you live, you'll have to do more intervals instead of longer ones, but remember that the main goal is to increase the total time spent at this intensity each week. It's good to focus on ClimbingRepeat work for 4-8 weeks, taking a recovery week after the third or fourth week.

            

Equipment

Your choice of cycling equipment is important to your climbing success. Just like time trialists have specialized aero equipment and mountain bikers have suspension tuning options, climbers can benefit greatly from the right equipment. The main goal is obviously to lighten your bike to further maximize the watts you can produce per kilogram you have to haul up the hill. However, gearing choices can be just as important as lightweight parts.



It takes an incredibly strong cyclist to climb well with an 11-23 rear cassette. The 11-23 works well on flatter ground, but with that gearing on a hilly route you can be at a big disadvantage. The 39 x 23 combination at 60 RPM gives you 12.8 km/h. If you know that you're climbing below that speed then you'll need to modify your gearing. At 60 RPM you're using a great amount of muscular strength to get yourself up the hill. This is fine for a strength building workout, but highly inefficient if you抮e aiming to get to the front of the group ride. A more optimal climbing cadence would be 80 RPM or greater. The higher cadence minimizes muscular fatigue. Start out with a 12-25 or 12-27 rear cassette. Even Lance rode a 12-25 all winter, so no shame in choosing such. If need further gearing for even steeper and longer climbs, then you should consider a compact crankset. Shimano, Campagnolo and FSA now offer compact models. They come with a 50-tooth big ring and 34- or 36-tooth inner ring. The 34-tooth chainring with the 25 & 27 rear cogs give you the ability to maintain a higher cadence on steeper climbs without resorting to a triple chainring crankset. With the proper gearing installed you can climb the long and steep hills much more efficiently. This increased efficiency will go a long way to improving your climbing position in your club peloton.



The latest rage in wheelsets is to create the wheels that are extremely light while still sturdy and stable enough for rough roads and fast descents. Some now weigh less than 1kg, for both wheels! Most climbing-specific wheelsets have a rim depth of 30mm or less. There are a few very light wheel sets with rim depths of 50mm, but they are closer to the dynamic?category and that's for another article. There's a famous quote about bicycle components by Keith Bontrager: strong, light, cheap. Pick two.?So unfortunately for the consumer of light wheels, there is no low end of the price range. In the middle?of the price range ($1100 USD; €925) is the Mavic ksyrium ES.?This wheel set is an update of the proven Ksyrium SSC design. The ES version saves a few more grams by going with a shallower & lighter front rim as well as lighter hubs. It totals 1485 grams for the set. Other great choices in this price & weight range include the Zipp ?03,? Shimano wH-7800,' and Reynolds 'Stratus-DV.?At the high end of the climbing wheel set is the Lightweight entoux.?It's constructed of a shallow carbon rim with a kevlar/carbon spoking system that never needs truing. The hubs have carbon bodies. It's tough enough for riders up to 100kg. At 950 grams [the only UCI approved wheelset below 1kg] and $5500 USD [€4575] its in a category all its own.



You'll notice the greatest improvement with a lighter wheel set. After you've done that and are looking for more weight savings, there are plenty of other ways to lighten your ride. Cranksets, brake calipers, and seatposts are the areas where you can save the most weight. A great source for these lightweight parts and builds is at Weight Weenies [http://weightweenies.starbike.com] but also check out our shopping section for places to shop. These parts will also lighten your wallet, so spend wisely. Remember that improving your fitness and reducing your body weight are the cheapest ways to maximize your watts per kilogram!



Altitude

Altitude training is quickly becoming an often talked-about training tool. It's still not mentioned or used as much as a power meter, but it can still be a great training tool. In studies, researchers Dr. Ben Levine and Dr. Jim Stray-Gundersen, have shown that altitude training improves performance by as much as 5% (Levine). Five percent is quite a bit when it comes to climbing. For example in the 2004 Tour de France, Lance Armstrong won the l扐lpe d扝uez uphill time trial in 39:41. Five percent slower there was 2 minutes back; only good enough for 5th place. Not everyone can climb like Lance so let's say a strong cyclist can ride l扐lpe d扝uez in 70 minutes. A 5% increase from that makes you 3:30 faster. It's hard not to be happy with that improvement. The increased red blood cell mass from altitude training helps deliver more oxygen to your muscles. The thinner the air, the more red blood cells you'll need. If you're going to climb the cols of the Tour de France, proper altitude training can help you since many of the summits are over 1600m elevation. As you get closer to the summit of these high peaks, your body is more fatigued yet is working even harder to deliver adequate oxygen. At 1524 meters, available aerobic power is estimated to be 94.4% of sea level power in acclimatized athletes and only 91.1% in non-acclimatized athletes (Bassett). When incorporating altitude into your training plan, make sure to reduce your training volume & intensity to allow for the increased stress that high altitude places on your body.      



Improving you climbing ability is hard work, but the process yields great results. There will be many tough days on the hills. A positive attitude and long term focus will help you through the challenging sessions. Stick with it, because the view from the top of the climb is indeed the sweetest.
]]>